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This topic is lockedAs the old adage goes, "prevention is worth a pound of cure". This is particularly true when lost data and/or lost productivity result from a problem that never would have occured had appropriate preventative measures been taken.
1. Component selection (non-motherboard)
There are many potential points of failure in a computer. The motherboard is only one of them. Buying a great, high-quality motherboard, like a Gigabyte, deals with that element of the equation. Beyond that, we have some suggestions.
A. Consider the value of your data and the cost of lost productivity
when you evaluate the components for your system. The money you save by cutting corners on components can be lost many times over when those components fail or are unreliable.
B. System RAM - buy good quality RAM from known suppliers.
Brands that are normally always good include chips and modules from Samsung and Micron. Since chips from both of those firms can also be mounted on third-party PCBs, make sure the module manufacturer also has a good reputation. Module makers are distributed all over the world. We have dealt directly with very few of them. Melco (Japan and USA), Kingston (USA), Corsair (USA), and Viking (USA) have strong track records. But no matter whose product you buy, make sure you can return your purchase if there is a problem. "No return" policies strongly suggest you should deal elsewhere.
There's also the question of CAS (column-address-strobe) latency (or CL).
Some memory module suppliers will recommend CL2 memory for overclocking and higher performance -- versus the normal CL3 products. Frankly CL2 may be a waste of money. In fact, the writer has even seen CL3 memory outrun otherwise identical CL2 memory. Even if you are not overclocking, you can probably run good CL3 memory at the CL2 setting in your BIOS (Chipset Featrures/SDRAM CAS latency). If you are going to overclock, some reliability testing is in order. But, since there are few (if any) memory module manufacturers who will lend you memory to do that testing, you will probably be left to your own devices to determine whether the CL2 product is worth the added expense. Your mileage may very. And overclocking can definitely have a significant impact on system reliability. Forewarned is forearmed.
C. Processors - all the major processors are reliable IF run at their rated speed.
Part of the problem is that, unless you're buying a boxed processor product from a reliable supplier, there is the chance that the processor has been remarked to a higher speed (speed bin). If you run the processor at that remarked speed there is the chance that the system will not boot at all, that the system will not run reliably, or that the life of the processor will be shortened. Then again, there's the chance that the processor will run just fine.
"Hey, I hear all this talk about overclocking my processor as the best way to get better "bang for the buck". What about that?". That MAY be true. However, as best we know, there have been no definitive studies done to compare the product life of a CPU run at the rated speed versus one run above the rated speed. Frankly, if you don't really push the processor to its maximum limits, you may never have to worry about the processor failing. Those folks that have had luck with overclocking have been pretty vocal. Those that haven't have been rather quiet. Simply a word of caution. BTW, Gigabyte documentation clearly identifies that overclocking is NOT covered under warranty. And we know of NO motherboard manufacturer that does. And, before you ask, we do not know the "maximum limits" of a given processor. "Limits" (in the context of using a PC) are typically more a function of components beyond the processor, particularly the AGP card and system RAM.
Beyond processor selection, there is the matter of adequate processor cooling. We recommend that you always utilize an "active" heatsink (i.e., one with an integrated fan) and make sure the fan speed alarm in the BIOS is enabled. A ball bearing fan is preferred. Beyond an active heatsink, do what you can to get the hot air out of the chassis. Extra chassis fans may be a little noisy but they enhance system reliability. If available, follow the fan manufacturer's recommendations regarding placement. The idea is to get the hot air our of the system, not to recirculate it. A dual fan setup may work even better - one fan draws in cool air and the other fan exhausts the heated air.
Logistics note: Check your power cable requirements before you go shopping for system components. Active heatsinks should include a small, 3-pin power connector. That connector plugs into the motherboard for fan speed sensing. Depending on the chassis fans you find, some will be available with the same connector. Others will have the much larger 4-pin style that・s used for your hard drive and CD-ROM drive. Depending on the Gigabyte motherboard you are using, there may be up to three (3) 3-pin power headers. One is for the processor fan, one is for a chassis fan (typically located near the front of the chassis), and one is for the power supply fan, As it turns out, very few power supplies come with the cable to sense the speed of the power supply fan. That leaves the third 3-pin power header on the motherboard available for a rear chassis fan. Obviously, if you plan on using the fan speed detectors on the motherboard, you need to purchase chassis fans with the matching connector. Planning ahead saves time and money.
2. Motherboard installation
There are three issues we'd like to address here - electro-static discharge (ESD), installation of the processor and RAM, and the actual installation of the motherboard into the chassis.
A. Electro-Static Discharge (ESD) -
for those of you who work in the production department of an electronics manufacturer, you already know that this is a big problem area. For you that don't, we're talking about zapping electronic components with the static each of us generates just walking around and doing various every day tasks. Static that isn't even noticeable. Static that can kill an electronic component now or wound it so that it fails in the future (after causing intermittent problems which will do their best to drive you crazy). We'll address this topic real quick. We STRONGLY suggest that you get an anti-static strap and use it as directed in the manufacturer's instruction sheet. The motherboard, processor, RAM, and adapter cards all come in anti-static bags - for a reason. Get an anti-static strip and use it. If you want more info on ESD, visit: http://www.borg.com/~eosesd/eos19.htm.
B. Installation of the processor and RAM-
we recommend that you install the processor (including, as applicable, its associated retention mechanism and active heatsink) and RAM before installing the motherboard into the chassis. There are several reasons this makes sense. First there is a lot more room to work on the components outside of the chassis. Second, because the motherboard is only supported at the chassis' mounting hole standoffs (after being positioned and secured in the chassis), it is more likely to flex and be damaged by the pressure applied to seat the processor and/or RAM modules. In the case of seating a Slot 1 processor, the pressure can be significant.
Therefore the recommended approach is:
1. Check all motherboard jumper settings and make appropriate changes to match your particular circumstances (following the instructions in the User's Manual).
2. If applicable and not already installed, install the processor retention mechanism. The retention mechanism is keyed to a protrusion at one end of the Slot 1 connector and will only install flush with the motherboard if correctly oriented.
3. Place the motherboard on a table, or other large flat surface, with the foam pad (that usually ships with each motherboard) between the motherboard and the table. If the foam is missing, use a piece of corrugated cardboard.
4. If not already installed, install the processor・s active heatsink. NOTE: Depending on the processor (Socket 370 or Socket 7), this step may need to follow step
5. Install the processor per the manufacturer's instructions. If applicable, engage the retention clips into the sides of the retention mechanism or lower the handle to secure the processor.
6. Connect the power lead from the processor fan to the mating connector on the motherboard. [Note the shape of the connector on the cable and the shape of the mating connector on the motherboard. There are "wing-like" tabs on the cable connector which are designed to fit "around" the sides of the motherboard connector and align the pins to the holes. Orient and connect the cable accordingly.]
7. Align each RAM module to correctly key it to its corresponding RAM socket (match the slots on the edge of the module to the cross bars in the socket); insert fully.
8. Double check to ensure that both the processor and system RAM are fully seated.
C. Installing the motherboard into the chassis please take the time to note the location of all the motherboard standoffs as they position the motherboard in the chassis. IF the standoffs are metal, it is CRITICAL that you remove any standoff that will not actually be used to mount the motherboard. If not removed, the motherboard may short out to that standoff and the system won't boot. So, for example, if there are six mounting holes in the motherboard (identifiable by the wide silver ring around each hole), then there should be six, and ONLY six) standoffs securely screwed or clipped into the chassis. Every one of those standoffs should match the location of a mounting hole in the motherboard. If required, relocate standoffs to match the mounting hole locations in the motherboard. Remove any standoff that is not required. Next, lower the motherboard into the chassis. Position it over the standoffs and secure it with the screws provided by the chassis vendor. Do NOT over-torque the screws. NOTE: When you are positioning the motherboard to match the standoffs in the chassis, you may need to apply pressure towards the chassis' I/O shield to overcome the resistence of the contact fingers which frequently surround the openings in the shield. The best approach is to firmly grasp the edge of the motherboard that is away from the rear of the chassis and then pull back towards the rear of the chassis. When all of the motherboard's I/O connectors protrude fully into their corresponding opening in the I/O shield, and all the mounting screw holes in the motherboard align over the standoffs in the chassis, install a couple of mounting screws to lock the motherboard in place. [A magnetic head screwdriver will be helpful here so you can apply pressure to position the motherboard with one hand and insert the screws with the other hand.] After that the rest of the screws should be easy to install.
3. System assembly, balance
The balance of the assembly process can vary widely depending on your system configuration. There are a few points that apply to all installations.
A. Power cable chafing-
depending on the layout of the components inside the chassis and the possible presence of sharp or semi-sharp edges to the drive bays, it is a good idea to make sure the power cables are positioned in such a manner and/or in such locations that chafing will be precluded. You can use tie wraps to position cables out of the way or apply electrical tape over a sharp edge that the cable might rub against. While this precaution is primarily intended to avoid problems during shipping, it is always a good idea to avoid running power cables across sharp edges - a nick in a wire's insulation is a great place for corrosion to start.
B. Front panel indicator lights, switches, and mode cables; system speaker - depending on the motherboard selected and the chassis selected, there will be a few front panel "items" that need to be connected to the motherboard. While the User's Manual addresses each connection, a few of comments are warranted:
1. ATX power switch -- if your experience with motherboards is with an AT form factor board using an AT power supply (typically referred to today as a Baby AT motherboard), and you decide to use an ATX, microATX, or miniNLX motherboard, you will find that you have to use an ATX power supply. An ATX power supply does not have a power switch to power on the system and it does not directly connect to one. The system power switch is connected to the motherboard and, in turn, the motherboard is connected to the power supply (through the main power cable). The power switch simply completes the circuit through the motherboard to the power supply. This difference can be confusing if you haven't been there before. Also note that this function is typically documented as "soft power". The power switch and cable are supplied by the chassis vendor, not with the motherboard.
2. Suspend mode or Green function -- depending on the sophistication of the chassis, there may be an indicator light (LED) which shows Suspend mode operation (a power-saving, or green, mode). There may also be a switch to force the system into suspend mode. If the chassis does not have these features, probably no great loss (the functions are still available - you just won't have the LED to signal you that you are in suspend mode and/or you won't be able to force suspend mode via the front panel). The point is that, if these features are present in the chassis and you want to use them, you will have to cable from the front panel to the motherboard. The switch and associated cables are supplied by the chassis vendor, not with the motherboard.
3. Infrared (IrDA) - again depending on the chassis and motherboard or motherboard option selected, you may have the ability to communicate between your desktop system and your notebook computer using infrared technology (the typical application of infrared in desktop systems). To accommodate this function there will be a "module" which mounts in or near the front of the chassis and cables back to the motherboard. The module and cable are supplied by the chassis vendor, not with the motherboard.
4. System speaker -- many Gigabyte motherboards have an "internal buzzer". As such, you probably don't need to concern yourself with the chassis having a system speaker. If the chassis has one, the motherboard will accommodate it. If not, you can just use the internal buzzer. They serve exactly the same purpose.
4. Initial system boot-up check
NOTE: These steps assume that there is no operating system installed on the hard drive. If one is installed, the system should boot through to that operating system at the end of step 3.D. These steps assume you have left the system unit "open" - so you can see what's happening as you proceed.
A. Power supply voltage and "local" power switch -
check the power supply voltage setting (typically a red switch at the rear of the power supply). Ensure it is set to match the available line current (115 volts or 230 volts). Also, in case you have a power supply that has a "local" power switch (a switch on the rear of the power supply), make sure it is turned on - typically toggle (depress) the "1" side down (towards the power supply).
B. Cabling (system) -
attach the following cables to their respective connectors at the rear of the chassis - power, video, keyboard, and mouse. [See the motherboard manual, "Quick Installation Guide" section, or the icons on the connector (I/O) shield, for help in identifying the respective connectors.] If desired and applicable, also connect the following cables to their respective connectors at the rear of the chassis - printer, USB, mic, line in, speaker/line out, and external serial (COM) device(s).
C. Cabling (monitor) -
connect your monitor power cable and your video cable to your monitor and turn the monitor on. [Note that some monitors require that they be on BEFORE receiving a signal from the PC. Check your monitor manual and arrange your power-on routine accordingly.]
D. Power-on and initial check --
power on the system on. The system should "boot through" (sequence through) a series of "screens" that display various system information. At the end of the booting process the system should stop with an error message indicating that there is no operating system installed.
Check that all fans in the system are working and the air flow is going in the direction you intended.
If IDE/ATAPI devices were attached to the onboard connectors, they should have been listed on the first boot-up screen - if not, power down the system and check the power and data cables for the "missed" device(s). If the floppy drive isn't listed on the second boot-up screen, power down the system and check its power and data cables.
Assuming everything appears to be operating correctly up to this point, you can now proceed directly to section 6, "BIOS Setup". But...
5. Failure to boot
Yes, you're right, this doesn't sound much like prevention. We'll I'd like to get you into "normal maintenance mode" prior to going into more of the "fun stuff". So...we'll spend some time trying to make sure you can at least get started loading your operating system (actually, first taking a look at the BIOS setup and then loading the OS).
A. If there is either no screen displayed after turning on the power [it may take several seconds for the first screen to become visible], or the system prematurely stops booting (i.e., it doesn't reach the state described in subsection 3.D), STOP!
1. If applicable, turn the power off at the power supply (that is, if you have a "local" power switch), and at the monitor.
2. Recheck video and power cables (as applicable, remove and reinsert at both ends). If retaining screws are provided on the video cable, engage them fully.
3. If you are using a power strip, surge suppressor, or uninterruptable power supply (UPS), check to ensure that IT is turned on.
4. Turn on the "local" power supply switch (if applicable), turn on the monitor, and again attempt to boot-up the system.
B. If there is either still no screen displayed after turning on the power, or the system again prematurely stops booting (i.e., it doesn't reach the state described in subsection 3.D), STOP!
1. Turn the power off at the power supply, if applicable (you have a "local" power switch, and at the monitor. Disconnect all cables.
2. Methodically check the motherboard installation (see the comments about motherboard standoffs), all jumper settings, processor installation, and RAM installation. That's is, go back to the manual and the prior steps and repeat them.
3. Hook up your cable set, turn on the "local" power switch, if applicable, and again attempt to boot-up the system.
4. If there is either still no screen displayed after turning on the power, or the system again prematurely stops booting (i.e., it doesn't reach the state described in subsection 3.D), STOP!
You knew this was coming. At this point you require Technical Support. Please note that since you did the assembly yourself, with only components purchased (no labor), you may find it difficult to obtain assistance from your component vendor without being charged for it. This is one of the downsides of doing it yourself - i.e., if you need help, even from the person who sold you the components, you may have to pay for it. The fact that your system doesn't boot up means nothing to the component vendor (especially if purchased by mail order) unless you are claiming that the component you bought from the vendor is defective. Since, at this point, it seems difficult to be sure what is wrong, you might want to think twice (or thrice) about packing up that "item" (which item?) and spending the money for shipping, and possible restocking fee, to return it.
Here are some "comments" before you just pitch the hardware right out the nearest open (or closed) window or otherwise decide to cash in your chips.
1. If you did NOT hear or see the fan in the power supply moving when you hit the power switch, you either are not getting power to the power supply, the "local" power supply switch on the back of the power supply is turned to "0" (should be turned to "1"), the power supply is defective, the power supply fan is defective, the front panel power switch is not connected properly (either at the front panel or at the motherboard), the front panel power switch is defective, or the motherboard is defective.
2. Assuming the power supply appears to be operational (some of the lights on the front panel are on or the fan is moving), some of the reasons that might result in you getting NO screen include - you have incorrectly installed your system RAM (or the RAM is defective) -- in which case you MAY get a long beep, the CPU is defective (highly unlikely), or you have mis-set the DIP switches for the CPU. These are things that can be checked by swapping in alternate components or rechecking what you have already done.
3. If you have received error messages along the way, they may help you diagnose the source of the problem. Check your user manual(s) and record all such messages as they will help you when communicating with whomever you find to assist you. We strongly recommend that you DO try to get help from your component vendor. It may be something simple like misunderstanding an instruction in one of the manuals. Give it a try... but be prepared to pay for the assistance. If you think there is a problem with the motherboard, and your component vendor won't help (or has no tech support), contact mobo manufacturer. PLEASE provide the model of the motherboard (stenciled near the center of the board ususally), the PCB revision (typically located in the top left corner of the board, with the rear of the board facing away from you -- or near the model number), general information about the hardware configuration (video card brand and model, and system RAM type and chip brand), and as complete a description of the problem as possible (what actually happened to make you think the motherboard is the problem, any error messages received and at what point in the boot-up process, and any other info you think might help). That's enough info at this point.
6. BIOS setup
At this point we're assuming that you have gotten the system to boot up to the error message indicating no operating system present or to the operating desktop, if your hard drive already had one installed from a prior system configuration. There are really few preventative things that need to be done with the BIOS. If you wish to be conservative prior to operating system load (recommended), select the main BIOS screen option to "Load BIOS defaults." [Unless someone has changed your BIOS settings prior to this point, your motherboard is already set to the BIOS default setting -- the shipping configuration.] While there may be a "Load Performance BIOS" setting available on the main BIOS screen, we do NOT recommend that you use it prior to operating system installation. After the operating system is functioning properly, then try the performance setting.
7. OS installation
Again there are very few preventative steps at this point. The primary one is to be prepared with a full set of device drivers for your components. Depending on the operating system and the type and age of your attached components, the operating system may be able to recognize those components via Plug and Play (PnP).
Please note that "recognition" does not equate to having a driver already present on the CD with the operating system. Even if a driver is present on the CD, recognition may not mean that the operating system will load it without prompting you to confirm that the device it found is in fact what you installed. For example, just because the operating system recognizes that you have a modem installed, does not mean it won't ask for a device driver for the modem. The operating system may explicitly identify your modem or you may be able to go through a listing of modem drivers already on the CD (you just have to match an item on the list with the product you physically installed). Or you may have to provide a diskette or CD which includes the device driver.
Device drivers may be required for many of your components - including video cards, sound cards, modems, SCSI device controllers, network cards, printers, and scanners. Sometimes you will not be asked for a required device driver during operating system installation - the operating system may just automatically install the driver from its CD or it may never even detect that the device is present. If the latter is the case, the associated device may not be recognized by the operating system after installation. All that means is that you will need to install the device driver after you finish the installation. One simple suggestion, before you start the installation, RFM (read the ... manual). Forewarned is forearmed.
Reading the manual that came with the component will frequently help you understand how the operating system you have selected will deal with the component during installation. However, manuals vary widely as to their comprehensiveness and quality. Good luck with the decode.
A general rule regarding operating systems - do NOT assume that the operating system you select is compatible with the motherboard or the components attached to it. Do your homework BEFORE you start purchasing components. This is particularly true when attempting to install non- Windows operating systems. Yes, I'm talking about UNIX, LINUX, BeOS, etc. MOST components available today are only tested for compatiblity with Windows 95, 98, and NT. Many will also support Windows 3.1. Many will support MS-DOS 6.X, PC-DOS, and variations (but only in DOS-mode - possibly with minimal capability through emulation of a much older product).
DO NOT ASSUME COMPATIBILITY!!!
If you are considering using a non-Windows operating system, develop your component purchasing and operating system installation plans in detail. Find out if the latest and greatest component you want to use is AT LEAST listed as compatible on the operating system vendor's web site. It may take several MONTHS after a new motherboard chipset is released for one of these "alternative" operating systems to develop "patches" or "fixes" or "installation instructions". If your patience level is "average" or below average, I recommend that you stay far away from these "alternatives" - or that you develop the necessary support infrastructure (experienced friends or associates, computer user groups, etc.) to get you through the component selection and installation rough spots. Such operating systems may be excellent products, but at what price - in time, effort, and frustration.
Last note - if the operating system you plan to use is NOT listed under "System Requirements" on the component packaging, or, conversely, if the components you want to use are not listed as supported by the operating system vendor, be forewarned that the odd man out will most likely NOT support you when you have problems. Fighting with a component for weeks or months, just to be told that it can・t be returned because there is no "manufacturing defect" - money spent, money burned, hopefully lesson learned.
8. Bus master driver installation
Real quick. If you have an IDE hard drive, loading the provided driver will improve your performance. There are Readme files on the driver media. Please read the instructions closely and follow them when doing the installation.
9. Initial functional testing
At this point we'll assume that your operating system is installed and all attached components appear to be operating as documented in each component vendor's user's manual. Now you'll want to do what is generally referred to as "burning in" the system.
One approach is to obtain copies of Ziff-Davis' Winstone and WinBench benchmarks and run the system in their demo mode for 24-48 hours. These benchmarks can be obtained via download or CD (one CD for each of the two benchmarks) through http://www.zdnet.com/zdbop/zdbop2.html. [As the link may change, you・re looking for a site maintained by www.zdnet.com.] They are effectively free (there is a nominal shipping and handling charge for the CDs). It's suggested that you order the CDs well in advance of building the system so they'll be available when you need them.
You'll get a good idea of how stable your system is during this "testing". All other things being equal, there should be NO "hangs" or "lock-ups". There may however be some places during the testing that the benchmark stops because an "error" it detected. Such stops typically have NO relation to the stability of the system. They are usually related to the version of video driver you are using. FYI, frequently the driver that ships with graphics accelerators today will be older than the driver for that card as posted on the vendor's web site. One reason new drivers are provided is to fix problems in running the ZD benchmarks. So if you get an error message when running the benchmark, frequently the problem can be resolved by downloading and installing the latest driver. [Further note - if you are still getting the benchmark error after installing the latest driver, check the vendor's web site again, You may have downloaded a performance driver which is incompatible with the benchmark. If one is listed, download and install the WHQL (Windows Hardware Quality Labs) driver.]
There are MANY ways to burn-in your system. The approach suggested here uses real application software and "real world" benchmarks. Other software products may do as good or better job exercising the system. Specifically, various "diagnostic" programs may exercise I/O ports and do extensive testing. Some of these programs may be available as freeware or shareware. The intent in all this is to cycle the system continuously for an extended period to confirm that it is running reliably.
10. Application software installation
Suffice to say, this is somewhat the flip side of hardware and operating system compatibility. Please re-read section 6, Operating System Installation. You can generally substitute "application software" for hardware "component" AND "operating system". Since "application software" covers a very wide range - from scanner utilities to word processors - the potential for "conflicts" is quite wide. There may be incompatibilities between the application software and the operating system (commonly referred to as "bugs") and there may be incompatibilities between the application software and the hardware (commonly referred to as a "hardware conflicts"). Depending on which Tech Support team you talk to, the problem frequently turns out to be the other guys - meaning, "Heck if I know. Please try someone else."
As a hardware component supplier, we MAY be able to help with some hardware compatibility issues. Please note, however, that unless explicitly stated, we do NOT warrant our products' compatibility with specific pieces of application software. We do support, in a rather general way, installation under specific operating systems. However, operating systems may support hardware features which are not present in our products. And, even if a specific OS-supported hardware component is present in one of our products, we may not implement all its features or may not implement all "modes" or options of any given feature.
Please see "Driver Support" under our graphics accelerator specs for drivers provided for specific operating systems. Specs for specific (video down) motherboards may have a corresponding section. Depending on the chipset, hardware component on the motherboard (e.g., a SCSI controller), and the operating system, we may provide corresponding bus master IDE drivers, SCSI drivers, and/or operating system "patches". These items are provided on diskettes or on a CD which accompanies the product. There are Readme files on the supplied media. Please read the instructions closely and follow them when doing the installation.
11. Ongoing maintenance
While there is no need to lube and change the oil on your product, you may find it helpful to check our web site periodically to see if we have posted an updated BIOS or driver for your product. Review the "version description" to determine whether the update will provide any value. The updates are cumulative, so applying a later version will also cover applicable earlier changes.
If you experience a problem which you attribute to a "hardware conflict", it may help to flash your BIOS or update to a more current driver. Associated procedures are documented on the corresponding web pages and/or with the download file(s).
12. Backup (AND recovery)
This last section on "prevention" really has nothing to do with the hardware we produce or any software we provide with it. It's simple common sense that needs repeating.
Back up you data. And, if you have the appropriate hardware and capacity, back up your entire hard drive. Beyond just doing a backup, do a "practice" recovery. Many people assume that since they did the backup, the work is all done. Wrong! The backup may not work at all, or, having never done it before, you may do it incorrectly. Doing at "practice" recovery will also give you some idea of the state of the system that you will be able to recover to when the backup is complete (anywhere from a basic desktop to "just where you left it"). The time to practice is obviously BEFORE a system "crash" or "killer virus". If you do it as soon as all you critical programs are installed and set up, and you have a problem, only your software has to be reloaded - you won't have lost your data.
Pay particular note to doing backups of Windows NT. Suffice to say, "restoring the operating system" may not be possible without reinstalling it and going through additional rather complex, hazzard-prone procedures. There are many other issues that also need to be dealt with. Read your backup software documentation thoroughly - and practice before you have to do it for real.
Final note on backups. The primary thing you want to do in a backup is make sure you've saved your DATA. You don't even need to use backup software to do that. Simply copy the data files to a "spare" hard drive or some form of removable media. You still need to be sure you can read from the media, but that is much easier to check than doing a recovery. Obviously, the more often you backup your data the less work you will have lost if you have a disaster. Bottom line, just because you don't have backup software, or you don't have a tape drive, or you don't have whatever, you can still use simple DOS-level commands or Windows equivalents to do a data backup. A few floppies full of critical documents can make a huge difference. Enough said.
But...If Problems Arise
On occasion, "problems" do arise. Seems life is like that. Computers are like that too. If you've read through from the beginning of this document, you will find that some of what follows has been discussed previously. This section, however, is more oriented to problems experienced after you have been up and running for a while. If you get through the steps in the "Prevention" section and are running OK, your chances of needing this section will be drastically reduced.
1. "Problem" or "feature"?
Not intending to be facetious (and not taking any shots at Microsoft), sometimes "things" that happen may not even be problems. They may simple the way the hardware, operating system, and/or application software was designed to work. Not having a "feature" work the way you expected, does not necessarily mean there is a "bug" or a "hardware conflict". Not having support for a type of device under a specific operating system, may be a "feature" of that operating system. USB under NT is an example - one that you wouldn't have come across if you'd followed the suggestions in the "Prevention" section. Before you conclude you have a "problem", please consider:
A. Does the packaging or documentation that came with the hardware or software clearly indicate that what I'm trying to do is possible?
B. Is there anything in the associated Readme files that indicates there is a known "problem" or that certain devices are not support?
C. Is there anything on the associated vendor web sites that indicates there is a known "problem" or that certain devices are not support?
2. What happened "last"? Start writing!
While this will be one of the hardest things to remember when you're having problems, it's VERY important to write down what happened right before the problem occurred. Just stop what you・re doing, take a deep breath, and try to remember exactly what happened. The information you record now may save many hours trying to decode the problem later.
A. Did you just add a new piece of hardware or software - or was new hardware or software added since the last time you tried doing whatever went "wrong"?
B. Did you notice any boot-up or operating system message that you don't normally get? If so, what was it (be as descriptive as possible and note at what point in the boot-up process or operating system load process it occurred).
C. When you reached the desktop, was anything different? For example, were you now in VGA mode rather than at the resolution and in the color pallet that you were previously?
D. Before you had the problem, had anything else been happening that wasn't normal? The, "Gee, that's odd," stuff.
E. The last time you shutdown the system, did you go through the recommended shutdown procedure for your operating system?
F. Did you just install a new video card driver, or new motherboard or video card BIOS, or another new device driver, or a browser upgrade - or were any of those things done since the last time you tried doing whatever went "wrong"?
G. Has anyone else used the system since the last time everything was OK? If so, what did they do on the system and did they experience any problems?
The idea is to capture the data while the memory is fresh, NOT after you've takes step a through r trying to fix the problem on your own.
3. Retry
If at first you don't succeed, try, try again. Or so the saying goes. In the case of computers, sometime people get sloppy and just go from memory. That is they skip the documentation and the step-by-step procedures they may have used in the past - months or years ago. So one of the first things you might want to consider is breaking out the documentation, checking the procedure, and trying again. Which, if that fails, leads us to the next point.
4. Replicating the problem
If the same problem reoccurs on retry, did it reoccur EXACTLY as it did the first time? If so, you've replicated the problem. However, if it reoccurs three days later after everything seemed to be OK, you have a potential "random" problem - at least you may not see the connection between the two events. Now the new problem is trying to relate the two occurrences, if that is possible. Go back to step B and start writing.
5. Taking action
Once you have figured out what appears to have happened, you can start working your way through solutions - go back to the old driver (or old BIOS), uninstall the component or software, etc. Basically, try to back up to where you were before the problem occurred. If you can do that, you have typically isolated the problem. Now the question is, "What's next?"
The "what's next" issue may be as complex as whatever moved you to do whatever appears to have caused the problem. It possibly goes back to the component or software selection process (see the section on Prevention). The situation will dictate the course to take.
Specific Problems
1. Failure to Boot
If you sat down at your system, used your normal system startup procedure, and the system didn't boot up, you've come to the right section. [BTW - If someone else has used the system since you last used it, ask them if they had any problems.] We'll now look at various "won't boot scenarios".
A. If there is either no screen displayed after turning on the power [it may take several seconds for the first screen to become visible], or the system prematurely stops booting (i.e., it doesn't reach the operating system desktop), then turn off the power and try again.
B. If there is either no screen displayed after turning on the power [it may take several seconds for the first screen to become visible], or the system prematurely stops booting (i.e., it doesn't reach the operating system desktop), and you have already tried shutting down and restarting:
1. If applicable, turn the power off at the power supply (that is, if you have a "local" power switch), and at the monitor.
2. Recheck video and power cables (as applicable, remove and reinsert at both ends). If retaining screws are provided on the video cable, engage them fully.
3. If you are using a power strip, surge suppressor, or uninterruptable power supply (UPS), check to ensure that IT is turned on.
4. Turn on the power supply switch (if applicable), turn on the monitor, and again attempt to boot-up the system.
C. If you just installed a new video card or system RAM (or had occasion to remove and replace the current components), you may have not installed or reinstalled them correctly. Remove them and reinstall them correctly - make sure they are fully seated. Then try booting again. If you swapped in new RAM, try the old RAM and see if the system will boot.
D. If you got "the blue screen of death" while booting, then, depending on the diagnostics on the screen, you may get to reinstall your operating system. You should first try restarting the system - usually doesn't help (though with NT you can try "Last Known Good"). Please note that you are now unlikely to be dealing with a motherboard problem. The operating system just really doesn't like what you did to the system before trying to reboot.
E. If there is either still no screen displayed after turning on the power, or the system again prematurely stops booting(i.e., it doesn・t reach the operating system desktop), STOP!
At this point you require Technical Support. Please note that since you did the assembly yourself, with only components purchased (no labor), you may find it difficult to obtain assistance from your component vendor without being charged for it. This is one of the downsides of doing it yourself - i.e., if you need help, even from the person who sold you the components, you may have to pay for it. The fact that your system doesn't boot up means nothing to the component vendor (especially if purchased by mail order) unless you are claiming that the component you bought from the vendor is defective. Since, at this point, it seems difficult to be sure what is wrong, you might want to think twice (or thrice) about packing up that "item" (which item?) and spending the money for shipping, and possible restocking fee, to return it.
Here are some "comments" before you just pitch the hardware right out the nearest open (or closed) window or otherwise decide to cash in your chips.
1. If by strange chance, you just came back to the system and the last thing you did before shutting down the system was to update your system BIOS (but did not let the system reboot to confirm the BIOS update was OK), then you may have "lost" your BIOS. That is, the flash utility program may have not completed execution and the new BIOS was not been installed completely. If that is the case, and depending on the motherboard model, you will probably need to replace the BIOS chip. Contact your motherboard vendor or try this
bios site
2. If you did NOT hear or see the fan in the power supply moving when you hit the power switch, you either are not getting power to the power supply, the "local" power supply switch on the back of the power supply is turned to "0" (should be turned to "1"), the power supply is defective, the power supply fan is defective, the front panel power switch is not connected properly (either at the front panel or at the motherboard), the front panel power switch is defective, or the motherboard is defective. Attempt to step through each possibility.
3. Assuming the power supply appears to be operational (some of the lights on the front panel are on or the fan is moving), some of the reasons that might result in you getting NO screen include - the system RAM is defective - in which case you MAY get a long beep; the CPU is defective (highly unlikely); or you have mis-set the DIP switches for the CPU (unlikely if you have stepped through the preceding steps). These are things that can be checked by swapping in alternate components or rechecking what you have already done.
4. If you have received error messages along the way, they may help you diagnose the source of the problem. Check your user manual(s) and record all such messages as they will help you when communicating with whomever you find to assist you. We strongly recommend that you DO try to get help from your component vendor. It may be something simple like misunderstanding an instruction in one of the manuals. Give it a try... but be prepared to pay for the assistance.
2. "Locks up" during use
We've consider problems when the system won't boot up. Now we'll consider the situation where the system is running and "locks up" (i.e., freezes and requires either the use of Ctrl-Alt-Del or a hard reset). In either instance your session ends rather abruptly. Since there are potentially many causes for a "lock up", we'll try narrow down the field.
A. Where and when? Frankly, the system can lock up at virtually any point depending on the circumstances. It can lock up from the point that the you first reach the desktop (never comes off the hour glass) to the point that you attempt to do a normal shutdown and the "It's OK to shutdown your system." screen comes up but never clears (the system never shuts down). Typically, some portion of system memory has been written over and the system becomes confused and stops (waiting for help which never comes). Such occurrences can be regular or "random" depending on the tasks and workload.
B. Repeatability - As you might imagine, given the above comments, trying to replicate the problem is frequently difficult. Sometimes the problem is localized to the times when you are exiting a game and you never quite get back to the desktop. Other times it may be when you have a large document open and you open your browser, another application, and another application. The last application never seems to open. Depending on how habitual you are, you may be able to see the cumulative effect. Then again, what works today may not work tomorrow - or just the opposite.
C. Possible causes - The biggest cause of lock ups is insufficient memory (to handle the applications open), games that try to cheat their way around memory constraints but fail, and general instability in the system caused by everything from overclocking to the effects of ESD on your memory. The first of these is easy to check - borrow some memory and see if the problem goes away. The second, unruly games (especially ones running in DOS-mode), is also relative to identify as they tend to be some of the more repeatable of lock up problems. General system instability is also possibly and easy fix if you're will to back off on your overclocking. This is mostly a "you made it, you fix it" type of problem. Testing the "fix' is rather simple.
D. Analysis - Try to narrow down your problem by first confirming that with no other applications running you can consistently run a "burn-in" routing - see prior discussion on burn-in in the Prevention section. If the system locks up during burn-in, then you need to consider going back to the bowels of the "prevention" discussion and step through the basic system set up process. Somewhere along the line the system was changed and the instability started. Until you can get a clean burn-in session you're taking your chances to go further.
If burn-in runs OK, then start stepping forward. Check the games that seem to lock up the most. Check for patches on the software publisher's web site and on your video card manufacturer's web site. If those web sites don't yield any help, try some of the game enthusiast web sites for the game(s) you're having problems with (links may be available from the game developer's site and/or publisher's site. Bottom line with game problems is that you may need to live with them or not use those games that present a problem.
If burn-in is OK and you're OK with games (or don't use them much) then look at the workload you are putting on the system when it usually fails. Back off some on the workload and see if the frequency of lock ups decreases or the problem goes away. Tailor your work sessions accordingly. You can also see if an associate that uses the same applications is experiencing similar problems. Possibly between the two of you (comparing notes) you'll be able to identify the crux of the problem. Then you'll want to contact Tech Support for that vendor and see if there are work arounds available.
E. Cures? If you're able to narrow down and isolate the problem, the cure will be rather simple. As noted, however, you may not like taking the medicine. At this point you're really on your own. Unless you make the change(s) the problem will persist.
It should be noted that in the case of motherboards, CAS latency settings and overclocking are the primary causes of lock ups. These are both "user caused." If you set CAS latency to "Auto" and set the jumpers to the rated speed of the processor, you should have no problems with the motherboard. If you still have problems, check the memory by swapping with a friend, use WHQL video drivers, and make sure you have properly applied available game patches.
3. "Doesn't seem to run right."
Wow, give me a break! But this is frequently heard. It seems to be a mix of "my applications aren・t stable", "the system won't boot up or shutdown properly", and "my friend's system seems to run faster" comments. Frankly, I'd suggest starting from scratch. Back up your data and walk through the "Prevention" section step by step.
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Hope this helps. I have a gigabyte mobo, but most of these tips will apply to lots of configurations.
Posted 27 March 2005 - 03:17 PM
